So, you’re ready to start sport climbing, and you’ve got your harness, shoes, and chalk bag. But now you need quickdraws—those essential pieces of gear that connect your rope to bolts on the wall. If you’re new to climbing, choosing the right quickdraws can feel overwhelming. There are different lengths, weights, and gate styles, not to mention fancy tech features. But don’t worry! We’re here to break it all down in a friendly and straightforward way. By the end of this guide, you’ll know exactly what to look for when assembling your first climbing rack.
What Are Quickdraws and Why Do You Need Them?
Quickdraws are made up of two carabiners connected by a sewn sling (also called a dogbone). One carabiner clips into a bolt or piece of protection on the rock, while the other is for your rope. They reduce rope drag, keep your rope running smoothly, and—most importantly—help catch falls safely.
If you’re just getting into sport climbing, you’ll typically need around 10 to 12 quickdraws for single-pitch routes. But before you start buying, let’s break down the key features that matter most for beginners.
Key Features of Quickdraws: What Beginners Should Look For
1. Carabiner Gate Types: Wire vs. Solid Gates
There are two main types of carabiners on quickdraws: solid gate and wire gate.
Solid gate quickdraws have a traditional, sturdy metal gate. They are easy to clip and come in straight or bent gate styles.
Wire gate quickdraws are lighter, have fewer parts (meaning less chance of freezing in cold weather), and resist gate flutter (a rare issue where the gate vibrates open during a fall).
For beginners, solid gate quickdraws are often recommended because they are easier to clip and feel more secure. Many sport climbing quickdraws have a straight gate on the bolt side and a bent gate on the rope side to make clipping easier.
2. Sling (Dogbone) Length and Material
The sling connects the two carabiners and comes in different lengths and materials.
- Shorter Quickdraws (10-12 cm): Ideal for straight, vertical routes with closely spaced bolts. They keep your rope closer to the wall and prevent excessive movement.
- Longer Quickdraws (15-18 cm or more): Useful on overhanging routes or when dealing with rope drag.
Most beginners start with shorter, stiff dogbones because they’re easier to clip. Look for nylon slings if you want something a bit more durable and budget-friendly, or Dyneema slings if you prefer something lightweight (but slightly pricier).
3. Keylock vs. Non-Keylock Carabiners
A keylock nose means the carabiner’s gate doesn’t have a notch where your rope or bolt hanger could snag. This makes clipping and unclipping much smoother. For beginners, keylock carabiners are highly recommended because they reduce frustration and make climbing more efficient.
4. Durability vs. Weight: Finding the Right Balance
Lighter quickdraws are great for long routes, but they can be pricier. On the other hand, heavier quickdraws tend to be more durable and often have a better feel for beginners. Since you’re just starting, a slightly heavier and more durable quickdraw will last longer and be easier to handle. Once you gain experience, you can experiment with ultralight options.
5. How Many Quickdraws Do You Need?
If you’re mainly climbing sport routes, start with 10-12 quickdraws. If you’re tackling longer routes, consider getting 14-16 so you’re always prepared. Keep in mind that some routes have anchors that require extra quickdraws for clipping in at the top.
Top Recommended Quickdraws for Beginners
Now that you know what to look for, here are some beginner-friendly quickdraws that offer a great balance of durability, ease of use, and affordability:
- Petzl Djinn Axess Quickdraw – A solid, beginner-friendly quickdraw with a keylock design to prevent snagging.
- Black Diamond HotForge Quickdraw – Easy to clip, durable, and comes with a straight gate and bent gate combo.
- Mammut Crag Indicator Quickdraw – Features a wear indicator that lets you know when it’s time to replace the sling.
- Camp Photon Wire Express – A great lightweight option with a wire gate design that’s still easy to handle.
- Edelrid Bulletproof Quickdraw – Ideal for those who want extra durability thanks to its steel-insert design.
Tips for Taking Care of Your Quickdraws
To make your quickdraws last longer and keep them safe to use, follow these simple maintenance tips:
- Regularly check for wear – Look for fraying on the dogbone or sharp edges on the carabiners.
- Keep them clean – If they get dirty, rinse them with warm water and dry them completely.
- Store properly – Avoid leaving them in direct sunlight or damp environments.
- Retire old gear – If you notice deep grooves in the carabiner or excessive fraying, it’s time for a replacement.
Final Thoughts
When choosing quickdraws, focus on ease of use, durability, and safety; you’ll quickly find a set that works well for your climbing adventures. Start with a few beginner-friendly models like the Petzl Djinn Axess or Black Diamond HotForge, and as you gain experience, you can refine your gear choices based on your climbing style.
